The Scandalous Saga of the Grass-Mud Horse

The New York Times featured an excellent article last week about an Internet meme sweeping across mainland China: the grass-mud horse!

Videos of this mythical creature (in most videos it's simply a llama) have become incredibly popular in China and everyone from intellectuals to artists are discussing the subject and making their own tributes.

So what gives? Why is anyone enthralled by a horse-like, llama-wannabe? And, why is it muddy?

You see, in Mandarin Chinese, grass-mud horse (草泥马) is pronounced almost exactly the same as the phrase, "Fuck your mother!"

Think of the words "sea" and "see" in English. They're pronounced the same, but they have totally different meanings and spellings. In Mandarin, grass-mud horse sounds similar to the foulest of curses when uttered aloud, but it's actual meaning, and the characters used to write it, are benign.

Because Chinese is a tonal language, there are countless chances to mess up the meaning of a word simply by changing the tone at which it is pronounced. In fact, there are whole comedy routines, known as cross-talk, built around this fact. It's like Abott and Costello's "Who's on first?" routine, except in Chinese.

But, the grass-mud horse hasn't become a phenomenon solely due to it's comedic value. Like most great comedy, this joke has an edge.

According to the NY Times,

"The grass-mud horse is an example of something that, in China’s authoritarian system, passes as subversive behavior. Conceived as an impish protest against censorship, the foul-named little horse has not merely made government censors look ridiculous, although it has surely done that.It has also raised real questions about China’s ability to stanch the flow of information over the Internet — a project on which the Chinese government already has expended untold riches, and written countless software algorithms to weed deviant thought from the world’s largest cyber-community."

"Xiao Qiang, an adjunct professor of journalism at the University of California, Berkeley, said that the grass-mud horse is an icon of resistance to censorship."

Subversion and llamas all in one? Well done Chinese Internet crawlers!

Want to bypass web censors? Easy! Just hide behind cute animals, singing and dancing!



The infectious music of the grass-mud song actually comes from the Chinese version of the Smurfs!

If any of this seems familiar, maybe it's because you've heard the latest Britney Spears' song in which she pulls the exact same shenanigans! The song is officially titled "If you seek Amy," but Spears, the confused little trollop she is, pronounces the line so that it sounds like, "F-U-C-K me!"

I wonder if she learned this trickery from the Chinese?

Return of the Blogger

Welcome back to Erasing the Sun! No longer defunct!

It's been approximately 593 days since my last blog post... Yes, I am ashamed. Do I have an amazing excuse? Was I kidnapped and locked in a panda-guarded cave? Was I in a coma after surviving a yodel-induced avalanche in Nepal? Did I suffer amnesia after a boxing match with Mao's reanimated corpse? Was I following the silk road in a vain search for cotton? ... I'll let you decide.

A lot has changed since my last post. The biggest change is that I moved from Changsha, Hunan, to Hong Kong. So, while I'm still living in the South of China, in reality I'm living in a different world. I have trouble remembering exactly what I knew or thought about Hong Kong before moving to China, but suffice it to say, I probably had some misconceptions.

While Hong Kong is certainly a part of China, it is administered by a separate government. The mainland government refers to this arrangement as, "One country. Two systems." This arrangement stems from the fact that Hong Kong was a British-held territory for most of it's history, and only fell back under Chinese rule in 1997. Because of this reason, Hong Kong escaped much of the trauma experienced by the mainland in the past century. In Hong Kong, there was no civil war, no great leap forward, no cultural revolution, no Mao Ze Dong, and no Tiananmen.

Without these events, Hong Kong emerged as an incredibly distinct place from mainland China. Hong Kong is now by far the most westernized and developed place in all of China -- though a few places in the mainland are quickly catching up. Hong Kong is extremely affluent and its citizens enjoy a high standard of life, a free press, elections for most governments posts, rule of law and an accountable justice system based on British law, quality westernized medical care, and clean drinking water (I've been drinking it anyhow...). This isn't to say that Hong Kong is entirely a rosy colored place. The city has its fair share of problems including a shocking income gap and wealth disparity, poverty, rising unemployment, unaffordable housing, and some laws and regulations that can only be described as flagrantly racist.


So, just how different are Hong Kong and Changsha you ask? Please refer to the handy guide below.

CHANGSHA
Culture
Mostly Eastern, with a random odd thing from the West picked up by younger generations. Pastimes include karaoke, eating at hot pot or street restaurants with friends, spending time with the family, and studying.

HONG KONG
Culture
A blend of East and West. Hong Kong is best described as a combination of Shanghai, London, and NYC tossed into a blender and mixed on the highest setting. Zdddreeerrrrzzzrrrrrrrrr... Hong Kong! To be fair though, Chinese culture often plays a larger role in Hong Kong than elements from western culture. (Not that there is even such a thing as "western culture") Pastimes for young people include shopping, going to movies, spending time with the family, and making money.

CHANGSHA
Housing
My school provided me with two one bedroom apartments, one in the city and one in the countryside, completely free of charge. My city home was roughly 700 square feet, complete with a living room, sun room, futon, washing machine, TV, computer, and assorted nicknacks such as a wok and an old copy of Maxim (presumably left behind by the previous occupant).

HONG KONG
Housing
I had to find my own place to live in Hong Kong. It was quite an exhausting process involving visiting scores of realtors and looking at dozens of apartment. It took about one month of intense searching to find something I was happy with. I actually found a great apartment early in my search but the landlord refused to rent it to me because I wasn't Chinese. I finally settled on a tiny studio apartment that is more expensive than the apartment I once rented in San Diego, one of America's most expensive cities. My Hong Kong apartment is roughly 150 square feet. When I moved in it was unfurnished except for a refrigerator and built-in cabinets. It has a kitchen/shower/toilet combination that is smaller than an airplane restroom. I can literally cook,take a leak and shower at the same time... not that I would ever do such a thing. Still, I like my place. It's cozy and it's nice to have a space all to myself.

CHANGSHA
Cost of living in US Dollars
Bottle of water - $0.12
Bottle of beer purchased at a convenience store - $0.50
Average dinner including drinks - $1.50-$6.50
Dinner for two, including drinks, at the nicest restaurant in town - $50
Average taxi ride - $1.50
Pirated DVD - $0.80
Deodorant - Unavailable

HONG KONG
Cost of living in US Dollars
Bottle of water - $1-3
Bottle of beer purchased at a convenience store - $1-4
Average dinner including drinks - $25-40
Dinner for two, including drinks, at the nicest restaurant in town - $1,000-2,000
Average taxi ride - $9
Pirated DVD - $4
Deodorant - $4

CHANGSHA
Language
Mandarin and the local dialect of Mandarin, Changsha hua. Imagine a drunken Tasmanian Devil trying to speak Chinese and you'll have a rough estimate of what Changsha hua sounds like. Chinglish runs rampant when English is spoken. Signs are nearly all in simplified Chinese.

HONG KONG
Language
A nearly trilingual society. Cantonese is the main language spoken, but most people speak damn good English and Mandarin as well. It's difficult to study Chinese here because it's so easy to speak English. Chinglish is still popular, though less so than in the Mainland. Signs are in traditional Chinese and English.

CHANGSHA
Media
State controlled and censored. Things critical of the Chinese government as well as anything deemed "pornographic" are banned. The web is censored. Japan is often demonized in the press. Journalists are often jailed for doing their jobs. Taboo subjects, including the "three Ts", are forbidden.

HONG KONG
Media
Free and unrestricted press...except for news stories about triad gangs, which are barred from publication. No web censorship. Mainland China, especially the government, is sometimes demonized in the press. Pornography and prostitution are both legal. The only taboo subject is triad gangs.

CHANGSHA
Food
Incredibly spicy, incredibly cheap and incredibly delicious. That said, sanitation and refrigeration standards are lacking. Meat and eggs are often kept unrefrigerated. Basically, I had stomach troubles for the entire year I lived in Hunan, as did most of my friends...including my local Changsha friends. Food-caused illnesses are endemic. Foreign cuisine is hard to come by, although there is a single Italian restaurant, a few Korean and Japanese restaurants and a ton of American fast food chains. New foreign restaurants keep opening as well.

HONG KONG
Food
A bit bland, gelatinous, overly sweet, and overpriced. You know what becomes of Chinese food in America after you've refrigerated it for a few days? How it becomes a gloopy, gelatinous mess? Yes? Well, that's a pretty good approximation in my opinion of local Hong Kong cuisine. Gross. However, to it's credit, Hong Kong is a true foodie city and you can readily find cuisine from just about every corner of the globe: Spanish, Turkish, Kosher, Indian, Thai, British, Swedish, Mongolian, Nepalese, etc.

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Anyhow, Erasing the Sun is now back in commission! Huzzah! Look forward to new posts a few times a week. It's good to be back!

China and the "Black Man" (Pt. 2)

I've been receiving a lot of hits and feedback on my "China and the Black Man" post, so I thought I'd take this opportunity to better explain some things I said and to point out some new things as well. (For those of you who didn't read the original post, I talked about a popular toothpaste in China that was originally named "Darkie" and whose logo looks like a man in black face. China, I reasoned, needs to be more racially aware and sensitive, especially as it opens to the world and prepares for the Olympics. In any case, I recommend you read the first post it if you haven't already.)

Firstly, I should clarify that during my first few months in China, when I heard the word "niga" being spoken in Mandarin, the reason I was shocked was due to my own cultural and linguistic ignorance and also because of my connection to a country in which a similar sounding word, "nigger", is a a hateful and racist term. The fact that a completely innocuous word in a foreign language could cause such a reaction in me, especially when I didn't have any idea what the word meant, only proves how deeply ingrained issues of race are in the American consciousness. This misperception on my part says absolutely nothing about Chinese people, the Mandarin language, or about China as a whole.

A Chinese person commented on my original post that the term 黑鬼 (hei gui, literally "black devil") is the Mandarin equivalent of the English word "nigger". This is wrong, and actually, it couldn't be further from the truth. The phrase hei gui in Mandarin essentially means a bad, corrupt, or evil black person. While this certainly isn't a nice thing to call someone, it also doesn't carry any racist undertones. The Chinese have had very little contact with black people during their country's long history and thusly, they don't have many stereotypes or prejudices that are black specific. If you ask a modern day Chinese person to candidly tell you what they think of black people they'll probably say the following, "They all come from Africa and they all play basketball well." Not exactly PC or informed, but hardly bigoted.

Additionally, the term hei gui isn't reserved for black people alone and is sometimes used to describe bad people of different ethnicities. My Chinese teacher, Huang Laoshi, describes the ticket scalpers who lurk around train stations as hei gui even though they are in fact Chinese. The term hei gui is also interchangeable with the phrase hei xin, meaning black heart, which is similarly devoid of racial underpinnings. The person who commented on my original post went on to list some country specific insults like 俄国老毛子, meaning a Russian devil . He noted that these terms, including hei gui, are often said lightly, and, I assume, without hate. In fact, he called these terms nicknames.

The only Mandarin phrase I know of that is hateful and racist the way in which the N-word is, is the final term the commenter listed, 日本鬼子, meaning a Japanese devil. In fact, the commenter said that this phrase isn't a nickname, although he didn't elaborate further. There is a lot of anti-Japanese sentiment in China (which I will discuss later), and with this sentiment comes deep seated hatred that in some ways parallels racial tensions in America. Yet, to assume that a term like hei gui has a similar meaning to the word "nigger", is to make a big leap. In some ways, making this assumption is choosing a willful ignorance that permits or justifies the usage of American-bred racist jargon and imagery without understanding the real implications of doing so. After all, it's just a nickname, right?

There is no equivalent or synonymous word in Mandarin that means anything close to what the word "nigger" implies in English. There simply couldn't be. China was never involved in the African slave trade, and the Chinese never enslaved, debased, or dehumanized Africans on their soil. And therefor, the Mandarin language doesn't have any word that carries the hatred toward blacks that is contained within the N-word. In English, the word "nigger" doesn't simply mean a bad black person, instead, the word carries with it the loaded connotations and history of a land embroiled in the systemic subjugation and degradation of an entire people. It is a word that was created on the broken backs and shattered hearts of a people torn from their homes; a word that devalues another human as property to be owned and used; a word that says that those with darker skin are inherently lessor and without souls. It is a word that carries with it the tears, losses and victories of the civil rights movement in America. It is a word that, to this day in America, has the power to cause hurt and suffering greater than any knife can inflict. The legacy and usage of the N-word is entirely America's burden to bear and there is no single word in Mandarin that means anything similar.

If nothing else, my original post was a plea for Chinese people to try to be more sensitive toward racial differences and to look outside their own experiences and history to understand why the usage of racist iconography for product marketing like Darlie toothpaste is wrong and immoral. I wouldn't expect any Chinese person offhand to know why the term "darkie" or an image of a man in black face are so demeaning. But, I have a huge problem with any company or person who would willingly co-opt racist imagery from another country without first doing a little research to understand the history and potential impact of said imagery. One, that's a terrible business practice and is bound to cause a public relations blowout at some point, and two, it's a plainly immoral and irresponsible way to market a product. If you're going to borrow imagery from another country or culture, you should understand exactly what that imagery means. The makers of Darkie toothpaste apparently, and hopefully, didn't do that research and they ended up using a stereotyped and racist image and term for their product.

The name Darkie toothpaste was changed to "Darlie Toothpaste" in 1985 after the company was bought out by Colgate-Palmolive in 1985, and the incredibly offensive image on the package was downgraded to a less jarring image. However, to this day the image on the front of Darlie toothpaste appears to be Al Jolson in black face, and that is plainly inexcusable.

To help put this into perspective, imagine for a moment that an American company journeyed to Japan and borrowed a grossly stereotyped and offensive image of a Chinese woman (I don't actually know whether or not such imagery exists) and used this image on a product sold in America called "Comfort Women Panties." [A quick history lesson for those who don't know: During WWII, the Japanese invaded mainland China and forced thousands of Chinese women into prostitution to keep their troops happy as they tore through the land. Many of these women were mere teenagers when they were abducted, and they were treated like animals by the Japanese. They were repeatedly raped and gang-raped, tortured, and often killed after their bodies were wrecked by such abuses. Many of the Chinese women who survived this torture became sterile. The Japanese called these Chinese sex slaves their "comfort women."]

Trying to imagine the immoral usage of the term "comfort women" along with a racist image of a Chinese woman to market a product in America exposes just why Darlie toothpaste is so offensive. Chinese-Americans and Asian-Americans would never allow such a product to remain on the shelves, as well they shouldn't. The immorality wouldn't be lessoned if the company took a play from the Darlie handbook and changed the product name to "Comfortable Women Panties" but retained the racist image. It would still be inexcusable, racist, and a blight on American society. This is the closest parallel I can think of to compare Darlie toothpaste in China to a similar product in the west.

All I'm asking is for people, whether Chinese, American, black or white, to look outside of their own sphere and try to understand and empathize with others. This isn't being overly sensitive; it's being human and caring about your fellow man. Whether or not you can personally understand why an image or word has the power to harm, you should at least try to understand the pain and suffering it causes another. Is it really right to sell a product on the blood and tears of a people unlike yourself? I hope the answer for everyone is a resounding no.

Quentin Tarantino Messes Up

No one doubts that American filmmaker Quentin Tarantino is a cinematic prodigy. You'd be hard pressed to find an auteur who has as much love and respect for the silver screen as he does. Usually his movies are overflowing with obscure cinematic references and tributes. This man does his homework and generally doesn't make mistakes. But, while watching Kill Bill 2 this weekend with my dearest Dai Li, I found that the golden man of pulp cinema isn't as infallible as he seems.

At the beginning of the awesome scene "The Cruel Tutelage of Pai Mei", the scene in which Beatrix Kiddo goes to the Sichuan province in China to study with a kung fu master, Dai Li yells, "Hey! They don't speak Guangdong hua in Sichuan!" She was right, Pai Mai wasn't speaking Mandarin, he was speaking Cantonese (called Guangdong hua in Mandarin), which also explains why I couldn't understand much of what was being said. In fact, the actor playing Pai Mai, Chia Hui Liu, is from Hong Kong where most people speak Cantonese rather than Mandarin. I assume that while Chia probably speaks a bit of Mandarin, Tarantino had him speak his native tongue so he wouldn't butcher the pronunciation. Still, the Chinese person I was watching the movie with didn't buy this, and neither do I.Mandarin Speaking Skills: 1, Tarantino's Film Veracity: 0